Ask any self-respecting Goan, worth his or her weight in coconut, what would they like as their last meal and this is the answer you will get - Xit Kodi. With or without accompaniments (vegetables, fried fish or prawns, beef chilly fry if you're Catholic), but the answer will most likely be Xit Kodi.
What is Xit Kodi, you might ask? I'll tell you.. but first let me tell you how to pronounce it.
Xit is "sheath", not sheet or seet and definitely not shit. It's sheath. (Now I hope you know enough English to understand that even this word is pronounced sh-ee-th and not she-ath!)
Kodi is simpler, just Ko and Dee, or how you would say the name Cody.
So there you have it - Xit Kodi.
Literally it means Rice Curry. Xit is cooked rice in Konkani, and Kodi is curry. Specifically, fish curry.
So you saunter into any Goan home, on any given day (except maybe on Sunday) and you find fish curry with the day's catch simmering in a pot, and boiled red rice bubbling away a few inches away from it.
This is our staple food. It's what sambar-sadam is to people in the South and dal-chawal is to people up North.
Most people who go to Goa as tourists eat fish curries with huge slices of surmai (king fish) or pomfret or rawas (Indian salmon) in it. But a Goan knows that the smaller the fish, the tastier the curry is. So while we do use all the same fish I've mentioned in our curries, we also make it with the smaller, yummier anchovies, sardines, mackerel, red snapper, milkfish etc.
The curry is essentially a paste of grated fresh coconut, garlic, ginger, dry coriander seeds, cumin seeds and Kashmiri red chillies. As souring agents, we either use tamarind, kokum or raw mango. Sometimes, when it's a prawn curry, we add drum sticks or lady fingers (okra) for added flavour.
Traditionally the curry is eaten with our Goan boiled red rice. It tastes just as good with any plain white rice as well. Accompaniments like some lightly sauteed vegetables (garnished with grated coconut), fried fish or prawns or shell fish, beef chilly fry or spicy Goan sausages, take the experience to a whole other level.
This is our soul food, it's the food our ancestors ate centuries before us, tweaking the recipes as the years brought foreign influences to our shores. It's the food we share with our neighbours who live up north and further south. I have travelled all along the western coast of India, with the Arabian sea on one side and lush green paddy fields, coconut palms, and fertile red earth on the other. I always eat the fish curry wherever I go, and it is fascinating to see how it changes as the kilometres go by. The ingredients are more or less the same as I mentioned earlier, what differs are the proportions and the souring agents. In the Konkan and Malvan region of the west coast of Maharashtra, kokum is always used. In Goa and Mangalore, we use more of tamarind. As you go further down south to the coast of Kerala, you find the curries spicier, less coconut and more chillies, the addition of curry leaves, shallots (or sambar onions as they are called there) and something called kochumpalli as a souring agent.
The humble fish curry has so many different avatars! Even in Goa, it differs slightly depending on whether it's cooked in a Hindu or Catholic household. But it's delicious all the same. And we have so many variants... sometimes it's made only with coconut milk extract, and sometimes it's made both with ground coconut and coconut milk. Then there is the heavily Portuguese influenced Caldeen, which is a milder version that leaves out the red chillies and uses the extract of coconut ground in spices. Our foreign 'guests' who lived on our shores for 450 odd years loved the fish curry and used to call it Caril de Peixe. You can probably still find versions of it in some of the kitchens in Lisboa.
7 comments:
Been observing the fasts for 'Navratras' and strictly off all palate pleasing food :)
Your description of Xit-Kodi was tempting enough for me to google up a few images...
Don't really know if I am allowed to dream about fish curry during the Navratras now... :D
I guess it becomes the first few things I am going to dig into once the religious week is over...
Sorry for tempting you Himanshu :P
Xit Kodi for me - if possible - the next time we go to one of our Indian Restaurants.
Unfortunately, you may not get it because what's popularly termed as 'Indian' cuisine everywhere is the Punjabi stuff like tandoori and butter chicken... but try your luck and ask for Goan fish curry and keep your fingers crossed that they give you the authentic stuff. How I wish I could make it for you!
I can just smell it, and my mouth is watering. We love a good 'curry fish' as we say here. With green mangoes. And drum sticks. I prefer it with roti, not rice.
Which reminds me, is it true that the drum stick flower is edible? We cook the leaves. There are two small trees in our garden.
Oh yes we add green mangoes and drumsticks too (more for prawn curries). Maybe we should swap fish curry recipes to see how different they are? Would be fun!
Yes, I believe drumstick flowers are used in cooking as well but I've never tried.
My dear CC - Thanks for reminding us. Claude Alvares has a great book on Goa called, "Fish Curry Rice" (Other India Bookstore). Peace and love - Joe.
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